Salamanca Market Day

July 3, 2026
1 day

It’s not the bright colours and smells that assault you first.

It’s the crowd.

 

Only on Saturdays does it get this crowded anywhere

in Hobart. People from all over the place.

Curious tourists snap away with their cameras, despite the wet-flannel drizzle.

 

Vegetable and fruit vendors, multicoloured carrots, aromatic limes,

the resplendent flower stall with bouquets of roses, rhododendrons, hibiscus, cyclamens,

hyacinths, geraniums, pelargoniums, poppies…

The cake shop sells poppy cakes, which I buy because it reminds me of seed cakes from The Hobbit.

 

Anything and everything you need.

You name the ware

and there will be a shop under a rainbow coloured umbrella selling it there.

 

Visitors relax outside Irish Murphy’s with their ales,

listening to street performers serenading them.

The sounds of violins, saxophones, accordions and siren calls fill the air.

 

Despite poor weather I’m delighted to be there

on my first visit.

I smell something tantalising.

It’s a Bratwürste stall. Popping and hissing sounds come from within.

Resistance is futile.

 

Another stall proclaims a local ice cream called Valhalla.

The creamy, dark, bittersweet chocolate ice cream is heaped on a monstrously proportioned cone.

It’s almost like lifting Thor’s Hammer.

 

I buy a jacket and a keychain.

The keychain is square and nondescript

but has Hobart’s map inside it.

It used to jangle cheerfully with my Home and office keys, the keys to all our windows and some miscellaneous, mysterious ones that opened nothing.

 

I still have the keychain.

It is now bruised and battered, chipped in places, but the map inside is clear as day.

Just like my heart.

 

If I misplace it, I panic.

 

Not because of the house keys it carries now.

But because it was my first purchase. A link to another life.

It doesn’t jangle happily with my keys anymore.

These are alien, hanging desolately only for the singular purpose of opening a front door.

Swati Raghunathan

Swati Raghunathan, an Indian from Mumbai, fell in love with Australia by accident — watching a leg-spin bowler so gifted he made cricket, a game she'd never cared for, irresistible, and the country behind him irresistible too. That fascination grew into adoration, and when the chance came to study for her doctorate at the University of Tasmania in Hobart, she took it not for the degree but for the life it promised — arriving with her closest friend, intending to stay forever. Hobart remade her into someone unmistakably Tasmanian. A student of literature with a master's degree, poetry was always her favourite form — and in Hobart, that love finally found its subject. Leaving, she says, was the hardest thing she has ever done. Mumbai brought culture shock and displacement. More than a decade later, she still misses the cold, the coffee, the only place that has ever felt like home. In her 40s, she began writing poems about Hobart, and doesn't intend to stop.

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